|
Sep 2008
1:32pm, 3 Sep 2008
3,222 posts
|
hammerite
How did you get on with your new bike RT? If you have problems or need it servicing go to your LBS, you don't want to worry about getting it to Halfords in Cambridge if any work need doing.
My road bike has just been serviced, front mech had slipped slightly according to the dude, noise free shifting from now on hopefully (it wasn't bad anyway!). I'm confident with giving my bike a clean up service, just don't fancy attempting a full strip down service, like it's just had.
New cycle shop open in town tomorrow with a tri twist (Transition Cycles they're called), will have to nose at the weekend.
|
|
Sep 2008
1:44pm, 3 Sep 2008
627 posts
|
Slowboy
My bike arrived as a frame, a groupset, a pair of wheels and various packets of bits....
...as did my last two bikes before that....
but I think this reflects the fact that I like 'tinkering' more than it reflects on my interest in cycling 
|
|
Sep 2008
1:46pm, 3 Sep 2008
3,223 posts
|
hammerite
I like having a tinker, but only to make adjustments. I just really don't like the idea of flying down a hill at 40mph knowing I've taken apart and put my bike back together, and something could go wrong!
|
|
Sep 2008
1:48pm, 3 Sep 2008
628 posts
|
Slowboy
Heh heh, that is sometimes a worry!
But then, if you didn't do it yourself, how d'you know it was done right?
|
|
Sep 2008
1:58pm, 3 Sep 2008
3,224 posts
|
hammerite
I wouldn't but then at least I could blame someone else!
|
|
Sep 2008
3:54pm, 3 Sep 2008
1,709 posts
|
fixed/single free wheel choices.
the cheapest way of setting up is to use your existing bike and buy an old wheel off ebay or local bike shop.
take all the gears off, but leave the brakes, even on a fixed it's best have a rear brake.
the type of rear wheel you want is the old thread hubs which would take the 'block' freewheel. buy a sprocket or single free wheel and screw it on, shorten the chain to fit and away you go.
however there are a few problems.
1- the wheel may need dishing to suit the sprocket instead of a block, local shop could do that.
2- if you have quick release lever then there maybe times when the wheel will pull over due to the load on the chain when pedalling. a solid axle and nuts will solve that, although used to use the old campag qr levers pulled on very tight.
it needs tinkering with, but it will work fine.
H I am the opposite, I don't trust bike mechanics, I service and repair all my bikes. but then I have been doing it for years.
|
|
Sep 2008
4:10pm, 3 Sep 2008
637 posts
|
Slowboy
3 - if you just spin a sprocket onto an old style freewheel hub, it can THEORETICALLY unscrew itself causing the back wheel to lock at high speed with predictable results.
I used this setup for years with no problems, but youshould really use a track hub, which has a lock-ring with an opposed thread to stop this exact thing happening.
4 - on any kind of nodern frame you'll have vertical dropouts - this complicates things a lot, as it makes it more difficult (but not impossible) to get the correct chain tension.
|
|
Sep 2008
4:11pm, 3 Sep 2008
638 posts
|
Slowboy
1(a) the wheel will only need dishing if you move the axle about in order to line the chainring up with the sprocket. Otherwise it should be fine
|
|
Sep 2008
4:17pm, 3 Sep 2008
1,711 posts
|
true klompjes boy, which is why a back brake is handy, as you should not use the pedallling backwards motion to brake suddenly. It has happened to me, but at least the wheel won't jam up.
never thought about the short vertical drop out which is a pain. Old frame with longer drop outs give you some leaway.
|
|
Sep 2008
4:22pm, 3 Sep 2008
642 posts
|
Slowboy
I reckon the pedalling backwards thing is a myth anyways.
I mean...once my candence is up around, say 160, down a big hill....I certainly can't co-ordinate my leg muscles in such a way that my feet keep rotating forwards but I'm applying downward pressure on the upward pedalstroke....I always end up pedalling hard (orwards) INTO the brakes.... lol
Like I said, it never happened to me anyway...but felt it should be mentioned.
Vertical dropouts - either (1) old style frame for winter, off ebay (first choice)
(2) use a magic gear - that is, find a combination of chainring/sprocket that 'happens' to give you just the right length of chain-run
(3 replace dropouts on existing steel frame you have 'hanging around' (about 100 quid)
(3) buy a new frame specifically (about 140 quid up, SJS cycles used to do one but no longer do)
(4) get a rear hub with an eccentric axle, from hubjub.co.uk or similar (170 for a wheel built up)
(5) get an eccentric bottom bracket (megabucks, if you can find one)
I'll be trawling ebay and trying to do it on the cheap, although I have found a place in the states that does the relevant bits very cheap, and will be competetive even with shipping and import duty/VAT, I reckon....
|
