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Apr 2024
9:38pm, 12 Apr 2024
24,548 posts
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Meglet
Re pedal, are you sure you’re turning it the correct way? (I assume that’s the ‘yes o know’ bit). I check videos all the time!
Main piece of advice is to take it to your LBS or friendly mechanic. My LBS did mine pretty quickly! Stuck seat post may be more of an issue but last resort is to have someone cut it out.
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Apr 2024
11:34pm, 12 Apr 2024
10,244 posts
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Northern Exile
I use an old Ford brake adjustment tool, an old (long) screwdriver and a rubber mallet, it never fails. A bit of Plus Gas or WD40 beforehand can help. As Meglet says, make sure you are turning it the correct way, it wasn't really clear from your post if that was the "I know" bit.
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Apr 2024
11:36pm, 12 Apr 2024
10,245 posts
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Northern Exile
.... didn't answer the seat post question. This is a tricky one and you can end up doing serious damage to the bike, so if the ubiquitous blow with the mallet to the nose of the saddle doesn't work, I'd also recommend a trip to your LBS.
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Apr 2024
7:25am, 13 Apr 2024
24,549 posts
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Meglet
OH had a seized seat post, which was a shaped one on a Giant frame. My tip top mechanic couldn’t sort it. Eventually it started sinking but was still seized, which was weird, so he had to buy a new frame. He sold the frame and the buyer has managed to free it, I assume by cutting out.
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Apr 2024
7:47am, 13 Apr 2024
2,542 posts
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MudMeanderer
I've used body weight to remove stuck high torque stuff (pedals, cassettes etc.) before. Decent allen key/pedal spanner (dependent upon pedal), well seated, with a long bit of pipe, and stand on it! Just take care not to injure yourself!
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Apr 2024
8:32am, 13 Apr 2024
26,845 posts
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richmac
Jumping in here, pedal wd40 it, tap with hammer wd40, walk away for 8 hours repeat, same again for a few days. Don't use heat if the crank arm is alloy. You can also try, top tip here, a hex key bit in your cordless drill, set it to hammer if the drill has that, basically it's a 'soft' impact wrench
For the seat pin, most extreme I've seen is strip the bike put the post in the vice and twist while using heat, lube and percussion. It was my bike and it worked, the post didn't survive though.
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Apr 2024
9:09am, 13 Apr 2024
4,386 posts
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jacdaw
I really have been turning it the right way! I knew that would be the first thing people would say... but I have definitely been turning it the right way. I have fewer pedals than bikes, so switch them round regularly.
Sadly the pedal spanner is starting to slide off as everything is getting rounded, including the pedal spanner (a proper park one). But on the positive side, it is a 1990 mountain bike, so both close to indestructible, and of little real value. And the current pedal, although rubbish, still just about works.
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Apr 2024
11:01am, 13 Apr 2024
3,192 posts
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Flatlander
Once you do get the pedal removed by one of the methods above, a tip is to grease the thread of whatever pedal you back on. The grease prevents any corrosion occurring, so I've never had any problem removing a pedal.
Before anyone says anything, the grease doesn't cause the pedal to work loose because the different way round threads on each side mean that each pedal stroke is self tightening the pedal.
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Apr 2024
11:17am, 13 Apr 2024
4,387 posts
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jacdaw
I'm quite good at remembering to grease the threads, but I don't think this pedal has been removed since it left the shop in 1990.
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Apr 2024
11:32am, 13 Apr 2024
3,193 posts
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Flatlander
That pedal has lasted a long time! 
It sounds as if its demise might be coming soon.
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