Cycling for Noobs

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Sep 2022
10:49am, 30 Sep 2022
28,223 posts
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fetcheveryone
The writing on the brake callipers (is that what the horseshoe bits are called?) says Shimano 105. I’ve only just noticed that 🙄
Sep 2022
11:16am, 30 Sep 2022
9,156 posts
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Northern Exile
Replace with genuine Shimano, it's the same pad for 105/Ultegra/Dura Ace. It's time to replace them when you can no longer see the grooves in the pads, though they will still be effective way past that. Remember to set the toe-in properly, it makes a difference.
Sep 2022
11:19am, 30 Sep 2022
78,020 posts
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Gobi
I replace them when I really notice a lot of travel on the lever :-)
Sep 2022
11:50am, 30 Sep 2022
1,543 posts
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AndyS
I replaced my rear (disk) pads yesterday - despite my unrivalled level of mechanical ineptitude, it was a relatively straightforward process. (It was harder getting the old ones out than the new ones in...). Just been for a ride and it's made a HUGE difference.

In other news, I seem to have inadvertently entered next years Ride London 100. What was I thinking...
Sep 2022
12:22pm, 30 Sep 2022
28,224 posts
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fetcheveryone
Thanks all. I do still have very definite grooves.

Excellent Andy - that sounds like a great challenge!
Sep 2022
12:58pm, 30 Sep 2022
2,602 posts
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Flatlander
If you can still see the brake pad grooves (i.e. pad is not over worn) but the brake lever travels a fair way before the brakes "bite" adjust the brake cable and settings to bring the brake pad surface nearer to the wheel rim.
Sep 2022
4:52pm, 30 Sep 2022
1,978 posts
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Steve NordRunner
Pads? Reminds me of carriages 🐎
Oct 2022
4:14pm, 3 Oct 2022
28,232 posts
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fetcheveryone
I've done my second 50 miler (details in my blog if you're interested). I found this one harder, both physically and mentally. There was some wind to contend with this time around, BUT I am mostly thinking about the elevation profiles:



The data isn't madly accurate (unless my house really IS sinking), but you can get a flavour of both routes.

Garmin gave both routes a total elevation gain of ~520-530 metres. So how could I go about quantifying the degree of difficulty, based SOLELY on the elevation data I have? How would you do it?
Oct 2022
4:32pm, 3 Oct 2022
1,058 posts
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The Mussile
Unhelpful answer - I don't think there is a good way Fetch.

The big races don't have a scientific way to classify specific climbs (not rides) but anecdotally it used to be based on the gear you would need to be in to drive up in a car but I have no idea if this is actually true.

You could do something around metres climbed per km ridden but that could throw up some anomalies - a very long flat ride with a brutal climb at the end being rated as easier than a ride that was just that climb.
Oct 2022
4:46pm, 3 Oct 2022
2,302 posts
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MudMeanderer
Mussile: That's true about climb categories - they were based on the minimum gear required to get a particular old Citroen up the climb. They ranged from 4 (easiest) to 1 (hardest), and Hors Categorie, over which the cars couldn't make it!

I think the overall difficulty can be down to your own mentality and physicality. Some riders may like lots of short punchy/varying climbs. Others prefer few very long climbs on which you can get into a rhythm. In pro racing, Ardennes classics and alpine routes may have similar levels of elevation per distance, but very different course profiles and suit different riders. Who it suits best can depend upon how capable a rider is to hold a moderate power for a long period, or a high power for a short period.

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If there’s a thread for this already, I haven’t seen it :-) But I thought it’d be good to have...

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