Cycling for Noobs

1 lurker | 89 watchers
Jul 2022
2:19pm, 2 Jul 2022
2,519 posts
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Flatlander
A couple of very basic questions first, as much for anyone else reading.
When you try to pump up the tyre, is the valve fully unscrewed, or is your pump one of those that needs to be locked on to the valve before it will let air into the tyre?

If your valve core is indeed blocked, do you use tyre sealant? Sealant means that valve cores are more likely to become blocked. This video shows the symptoms, how to remove the core, clean it and replace.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZBhSskQOPE


Hope that helps.

As for what you do about the valve core before tomorrow's that is up to you. Does the valve let air out all the time even when screwed down fully, or only when you depress the valve? If the latter, then I would think it should be safe for tomorrow provided the valve is shut down and covered with a dust cap. Good luck with whatever you decide.
Jul 2022
2:21pm, 2 Jul 2022
55,448 posts
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LindsD
I would suggest you put the qu in Smell
Jul 2022
2:26pm, 2 Jul 2022
8,978 posts
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Northern Exile
Controversial post Linds. Or posted to wrong group? 🙂
Jul 2022
2:50pm, 2 Jul 2022
55,449 posts
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LindsD
No. Just very shorthand. I'll try again:

I suggest you post the original issue in the Smell of 220 thread where someone will be able to help you :)
Jul 2022
2:55pm, 2 Jul 2022
2,325 posts
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Totriornottotri
Ta! It’s not tubeless - was unscrewed
Jul 2022
2:57pm, 2 Jul 2022
1,393 posts
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AndyS
My wife eventually managed to get the tyre off. Unfortunately, it was while I wasn't watching, so I still don't know what I was doing wrong.
Replaced the tube.
Rode to parkrun and back this morning - and picked up another puncture.

It's almost like my bike is trying to tell me something...
Jul 2022
3:22pm, 2 Jul 2022
2,328 posts
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Totriornottotri
Maybe new tyres needed?
Jul 2022
3:26pm, 2 Jul 2022
2,520 posts
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Flatlander
AndyS What Ttontt says.

It sounds like you need puncture proof tyres such as wiggle.co.uk ;-)
In my use I have never had a puncture with them.
Other makes are available, but be careful of those that claim to be puncture resistant - "resistant" just means they are less likely to puncture, whereas puncture proof means that there is an extremely small chance of puncturing (rough figures - 1 in 100,000+ miles instead of 1 in 500 - 1,000 miles for unprotected tyres).

One can still get a puncture with a puncture proof tyre, but will be due to other things -

1. not removing glass/sharp objects from your tyre so that they eventually wear their way through the protective layer,
2. something penetrating the unprotected side wall (highly unlikely).
3. internal rim tape not properly seated, rough edges, valve gap not positioned correctly over the rim hole,
4. roughness of the wheel rim,
5. incorrectly tensioned spoke, the inside end will rub the inner tube,
6. faulty inner tube, valve etc.
Jul 2022
3:40pm, 2 Jul 2022
1,394 posts
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AndyS
The first one wasn't a puncture in the tyre - it was a pinch flat, so I'm not sure puncture proof tyres would help.
Not sure about today's, as I haven't summoned up enough resilience to fight with it yet.
Jul 2022
3:44pm, 2 Jul 2022
2,329 posts
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Totriornottotri
Ah okay - I remember on commutes once I started getting a few it was obvious tyres were going (I had some pro 3 lights which were like paper).

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If there’s a thread for this already, I haven’t seen it :-) But I thought it’d be good to have...

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