Commuting to work by bike
59 watchers
Jun 2021
12:53pm, 7 Jun 2021
14,681 posts
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rf_fozzy
Fitting a new chain is very easy. Fitting a new cassette isn't too difficult (with the right tools) I'm told recabling isn't that hard Depends on what else you want to do. Most things on a bike aren't too bad (apart from aligning rim brakes...) with the right tools. |
Jun 2021
12:53pm, 7 Jun 2021
20,899 posts
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DeeGee
Happy to reboot this thread, I'm a bike commuter when needs arise. What is wrong with the bike? Chain is quite an easy one, not so sure about cables as they need a crimp putting on the end to keep them tidy. And of course each particular job will need a specialist set of tools, which adds to the DIY expense. |
Jun 2021
1:02pm, 7 Jun 2021
4,967 posts
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mr d
There is also a bike maintenance thread. I agree with Fozzy. I'm happy with chains, tubes and tyres, but I've never changed cables, so would check out YouTube vids before deciding if I thought I could do it. You could reduce the cost of 2 by doing as much as you can. I no longer cycle to work, I walk downstairs. |
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Jun 2021
1:03pm, 7 Jun 2021
4,968 posts
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mr d
I also agree with DeeGee too.
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Jun 2021
1:08pm, 7 Jun 2021
19,937 posts
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Bazoaxe
So basically as far as I could make out the frame, handlebars and seat are OK, but the rest needs replaced :-O. I am not sure what the other bits are called that the chain interacts with but basically they are all worn/damaged. I probably dont yet need to replace the wheels although that was recommended albeit thats the easy part I can do. Other than a couple of Allan keys I dont have tools either. |
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Jun 2021
1:21pm, 7 Jun 2021
14,683 posts
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rf_fozzy
Ok, so potentially a complete rebuild.... So the question is what type of bike is it? Was it an expensive frame or "just" a cheap and cheerful one? If the latter, then it may be more cost effective to get a new one. Allen keys will get you a long way on a bike, but you'll probably need some specialist tools too. E.g. a chain whip will set you back about £7 (https://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-chain-whip). Cheap components will be in the £15-20ish range each. Although more if you need a new crankset (the bit that the pedals are attached to with the front gearing). That all said, a refurb, assuming the crankset is ok, you'd be looking at no more than cassette, chain, cables, brake blocks and maybe a few other bits, but nothing major. And most of that doesn't need anything too specialist (chain whip is about it). There are lots of good bike maintenence videos on youtube (Park Tool do loads) and Sheldon Brown website is good too The other thing you could see if there's a local bike hub/cafe that would allow you to borrow tools and also teach you how to do the trickier things? |
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Jun 2021
1:26pm, 7 Jun 2021
14,685 posts
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rf_fozzy
My inclination might be to go on something like Chain Reaction or Wiggle (now the same company of course), price up what you think you'll need and then compare to a new bike, factoring in your time etc And have a look at the maintenance vids to see if you think you can manage, e.g.: parktool.com |
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Jun 2021
1:27pm, 7 Jun 2021
19,938 posts
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Bazoaxe
Thanks, thats useful. It is pretty much a rebuild. Maybe I should try and dismantle it first. Its a Specialised Sirrus Hybrid - nothing fancy. Maybe cost about £550 about 6 years ago. Guy had a Ridgeback in his window for £650 which he said was pretty much like for like. |
Jun 2021
3:37pm, 7 Jun 2021
2,122 posts
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MudMeanderer
None of the jobs to get it running are particularly difficult, but things like reindexing gears after a cable change can be finicky. Another aspect at the moment is that there is still seemingly a shortage of a lot of components. For a commuter you may not care about everything matching if it works, but it's knowing compatibility that may be the challenge. So it may be worth chatting to a LBS, or indeed one of the increasing number of bike mechanics not linked to stores. It may be cheap and easy to get working with some knowledgeable insight. |
Jun 2021
3:38pm, 7 Jun 2021
15,349 posts
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MarkyMarkMark (3M)
Cables are pretty easy too - they come with a shaped nipple that fits into the brake or gear lever, and the other end is normally lightly soldered so it slides through the cable outer sheath. It's usually worth replacing the outer sheath at the same time, since they get manky and rusted inside when they get damp over the years! The two tricky steps are getting the mechanisms at the business end of things back at the right positions/tension using your Allen keys and a suitable spanner, usually (and remembering the new cables will stretch a bit in use so you'll need to readjust after a few days use), and cutting the "spare" off when you've set it up. You need a decent pair of wire cutters to do that, so the cut end doesn't splay & unravel, but then it's easy enough to slip the aluminum cover over that and crimp it gently with the cutting edge of a pair of pliers. Lots of YouTube videos, as has been said. Good news is if you buy pliers/cutters/spanners you will usually use them for something else, eventually! Unlike crank & cassette removal tools, which are probably only once in a blue moon. |
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